Posts Tagged ‘A&S50’

Meet JennyShoshanna has a doll named Jenny. She may look like an American Girl doll but she’s really the Target version thereof. Anyway. Jenny goes EVERYWHERE with us. I think the only night Shoshanna has slept without Jenny since she got her in April was when she had an overnight at camp last week and we wouldn’t let her take Jenny for fear she would be lost.

As you can see, though, Jenny’s clothes (somehow she still only has the set that she came with) are not really very medieval. And that is why I’m sitting here, the night before we leave to go to Pax for the weekend, hemming a tiny blue tunic made from raw silk.

I’ll post measurements for the doll and the garment later.

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Back in November, when I cut out Shoshanna’s yellow tunic to go with her Viking I also cut out a new smock for her because she’d been wearing her old one for four years. And she’s a LOT bigger now than she was four years ago. No really, look how little she was when she first had it! And at one time it even had long sleeves!

So last week I put together the smock that I cut out six months ago. And just for fun, I decided to see how long it took, because I’m ALWAYS getting asked “How long does it take to DO that?” and I wanted to actually have an answer.

  • Cutting: probably half an hour
  • Machine sewing & finishing: 2 hours on the nose
  • Hand finishing: three Merlins (another 2 hours)

So… for a kid’s garment, 4 1/2 hours. I don’t know how much scaling for an adult would add. Maybe I’ll test that theory next time.

The St. Francis smock is coming together really quickly. While at Kingdom Twelfth
Night on Saturday I completely finished one sleeve (seams and seam finishes) and got the other seamed. Finished that off on Sunday; last night I sewed the shoulder seams and cut & finished the neckline. Tonight I got two gores attached to the body panels and started on a third. I’m really itching to see how the join of the gores/body/sleeve goes but I need to get alll 4 gores attached before I set the sleeves, because the gores are so much easier to do while the garment is still two-dimensional. After I get the smock all finished and the second sock made, my part of the sewing for my elevation clothes will be done (Eilis is making my outer layers.)

In other news, the reason I trekked down to PA for Twelfth Night was that I stepped up as Kingdom Minister of Arts and Sciences on Saturday. Should be a whole new adventure, this Kingdom Officer gig.

I have so many things that I need to get done before Pennsic – and we’re not even going again this year!  But I have promised lots of things to lots of people by the end of July.  And so I sew…

First up is Catlin’s riding tunic ’cause it’s the most-delayed.  I’m making really good progress on it, actually – as of right now both sleeves are in.  I just have to put the gores in and hem it!  In is process, though, I had to fix one of the perils of cutting two layers of fabric at the same time: the funky cut.
Oops1
There were two spots like this on the body panels, where I’d had wrinkles when I cut the fabric and so there was a bit where the cut wasn’t straight and the not-straight-bit went deeper into the body of the fabric than I could fix with my enclosed seam treatment.  I did the obvious thing: I patched it.  I did this in two different ways.  First, I just applied a conventional patch:
repair1
I lined up the raw edge, turned the others under, and stitched it down. This is functional. It could have been much smaller, actually, but it works.

For the second one, I tried a more understated approach.
repair2
Can you even see it? This is a very narrow strip, applied the “wrong way” with a running stitch and then folded over and tacked down.  Same effect, less bulk.  It ends up barely showing at all, even on the inside of the garment.

Her Majesty’s Pooh Tunic: > 3/4 assembled (one side complete, the other not).

His Majesty’s Pooh Tunic: 1/2 to assembled.

TRM came by on Monday to check necklines (I’m soooo paranoid about necklines) and a good thing, too, because I need to put bigger gussets in His Majesty’s sleeves.

If I am a good little worker bee I should be able to have them done by the middle of next week.

Pooh Fabric This pile of “Pooh” colored linen (Shoshanna’s color-description, not mine) is destined to be tunics for TRM, to be worn either solo or under their Viking overlayers.  To be done by Pennsic (eep!).  Good thing I’m machine-sewing them!  🙂

Several months ago I agreed to put front & back gores in an otherwise-finished tunic for HRM Maynard.  It’s something I’ve done lots of times but I had never been totally satisfied with how it came out.  I can DO it, I just don’t LIKE it.

Then Tasha posted her instructions for setting a gore in a slit.  Tasha, it must be said, is a lifesaver, because while this is not anything that I hadn’t seen before, she put it in a way that I could make sense of.  (And I think having the instructions to refer back to really helped, too.  Previously I’ve only been SHOWN how to do it.)  And the gores, they came out beautifully.  Sadly, I didn’t manage to get any good pictures of them but HRM wore the tunic for court at Pax and it looked great, at least from afar.

I counted this for my A&S 50 because, while I didn’t do the whole garment, the re-learning how to do center gores was a pretty big thing for me and definitely will have an impact on how I go about constructing 13th century clothing.

Did I get your attention?

Caleb's Draw'rs

Here are Caleb’s braies.  I did them in the “quick and dirty” style – a wide center panel with legs attached, as pictured here.Capital H Braies  This is how I did braies when I first started making them – they give the right impression, ESPECIALLY when worn with hosen, but are pretty fast to make and don’t require draping them on the wearer.  I leave a small portion of the front seams open for access to the drawstring; it’s left open on both sides so that we can attach points directly to the drawstring and leave them there for the duration.

I haven’t seen them on him yet, but he tells me that the fit very well.  If Alicia can make it to textile guild next week, we’re going to drape his hosen pattern.

I seem to have a huge pile of projects all in the works at once right now… not that I mind, it’s just a little crazy.

I’m sending an A&S display item to Crown even though we’re not going.  That will be Matatias’ brown riding tunic – I had to do some mending on it last night because the topstitching on the neckline had broken in one place, but it’s repaired & washed.  I need to check/update the docs for it, though.

I’m also working on Caleb’s rapier armor.  It’s going to be my usual 2-layer undergarment with a fashion layer overgarment.  He has chosen brown with black bands for the fashion layer and white for the undergarments.  His hosen will be black as well.  I cut a bunch of bias bands for the trim last night.  When we get to the point that I’m going to drape his hosen pattern, I think I’m going to turn it into a workshop – Alicia wants to see how I do them and at that point we might as well just have a bunch of people over.  It’s not like I don’t have the handouts for it!

Finally, I’m working on Catlin’s riding tunic.  I’m repeating the seaming technique I used on the first riding tunic, only without whip-stitching the fashion and lining fabrics together first.  So far I have done about 6″ of seam on one set of gores.  I couldn’t find my wax last night so it wasn’t going as fast as I would have liked.  My GOAL is to have that done by Pennsic so it can be displayed and then delivered to her there.

ETA:  Heh, I forgot that I also have a tunic of His Majesty’s to do some work on.  Thank goodness for my handy to-do list, eh?